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Moe Al Thani | Moe Al Thani
First Qatari man to summit Mount Everest and to climb the Seven Summits.
First Qatari, Mount Everest, Entrepreneur, Qatar's royal family, Mountaineer, Brand ambassador for Reach Out To Asia, Founder of musafir.com, Sharjah Paintball Park, Grab n’ Go, Al Nawras Hospitality, Tamween Catering
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Author: Moe Al Thani

Still in Camp 3

  |   7Summits, Denali   |   No comment

I lost count how many days we spent here, been over two weeks with the same clothes, no shower, limited food.
Looks like the weather will be bad for another two days before it gets better.

As of weather reports by Friday the winds will slow down. Yesterday there were people who attempted the summit. I am not sure if any reached but all of them are stuck in camp 4 with frostbite. Pushing for the summit at the wrong time is no joke and there are consequences.

We are still put in camp 3 waiting for a window, all we need is 36hrs to make it to the summit and back here.
We are trying to make the most of our time here, so we spent it playing cards, talking about food and mostly how we miss our families and children.

When the weather hits there is nothing we can really do but stay in our sleeping bags and try not to think much on matters that are not in our hands.

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Ghost town

  |   7Summits   |   No comment

Many of the teams packed up their tents and headed down. The camp was filled with tents but when other teams heard that bad weather is coming they turned around. We still have 10 days worth of food and already started rationing our food.

We had to acclimatize to higher altitude, the plan was to walk up to the fixed lines and back. But when we reached there, we where very fast so we continued up the fixed lines to 5,100m. It took us 4.5hrs going and 1.5hrs back, which is quite fast.

Uncertainty is in the air the weather reports are saying that there is bad weather ahead and its a waiting game from here onwards.

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Edge of the World

  |   7Summits   |   No comment

Today we woke up with the perfect conditions, it makes you feel uuuuuuggghhhh why weren’t we on camp 4 to push for the summit. The weather reports were wrong.

So still stuck on camp 3, we went for a walk to the edge of the world where you feel that you are at the edge. If you have fear of heights that’s not a place for you. We took amazing pictures then headed back to camp it’s only 20min away. After reaching camp we went over some ropes techniques that we will need higher up.

So now we are waiting for our guides to make a decision on when to leave for the summit. Once they decide we move to Camp 4, spend the night and the next day head to the summit. Summit day could take upto 14hrs or more.

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The Toilet Situation

  |   7Summits, Denali   |   No comment

The Toilet Situation is a tricky one, where number 1 and number 2 can’t be mixed. Each one has a designated area. All human waste must be carried off the mountain, that means we carry our own shit. There are also certain locations to dump number 1.

Doing number one: the best discovery is the pee bottle. where you do not have to sneak out of your warm sleeping bag in the middle of the night when the temperature is -30c. Sharing a tent makes everything tricky where you have to tell your tent mate to turn around.
After doing your business you have a warm bottle in your sleeping bag, if you leave it out of your sleeping bag you will wake up with a frozen pee bottle which is not so much fun to melt. In the morning we have to empty the pee bottle in designated areas in each camp.

Doing number 2: let’s say it’s a toilet with a view and very well ventilated. It’s a bucket with a plastic bag inside that is shared by the whole camp. If you are not the lucky first one then you are up for a smelly surprise when lifting the seat cover. When the weather is cold then everything is frozen, when the sun comes up so does the smells. We operate at the 30s rule, do your business in 10s and clean up in 20s you don’t want frostbites on your cheeks.

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Making our selves home

  |   7Summits   |   No comment

Our day started, with bad news of a storm coming in with high winds. The park rangers came and warned us that we need to secure our camp.

Before we did we made some pancakes to lift up our spirits before the hard work begun. We shoveled tons of snow digging trenches. We made 2m high walls from ice blocks to protect our tents from the high wind coming. He expected winds might reach 100km/hr which is no joke.

The group all worked together making our camp the best fortified camp in camp 3. We are now safe in our tents knowing that if shit hits the fan we will be ready.

Looks like we will have a few bad weather days we have no option but to stay put and be optimistic. Today we saw many teams quitting and heading down as they are running out of supplies.

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camp 3 becoming home

  |   7Summits   |   1 Comment

We had a big storm yesterday, wind blowing at 65km/hr plus snowing heavily all day. We had to dig up the snow around our tents every few hours plus we built snow walls protecting our selves and tents from the winds.

At camp 3 it’s a waiting game, from here we cache at 5,200m then move to camp 4 before attempting the summit. But we need good weather before we can move ahead.

Today the weather settled so we went down to grab our cache 200m below. It took us 3hrs round trip. We made it in very good time as we acclimatized. We then also fixed up our camp as it got beaten up by the storm. So happy got our stash we ran out of food last night.

We had pizza for lunch today, was only a slice but reminds you of the world. Over here we are striped from all the luxuries in life. I can even remember how many days I’m here or showered!

If the weather is good we will go up tomorrow up the head wall to the top of the lines at 5,000m.

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Camp 3

  |   7Summits   |   1 Comment

Our day started at 7:00am with a cup of coffee and again grilled cheese bagel with turkey bacon. Then quickly packed our gear into the bags and sledges loaded them with about 30kgs and headed up the same route as yesterday. Passing the windy corner was an experience, never saw that much wind. The weather was way colder today, was wearing my mitts the whole time.

We reached camp 3 in 5:20hrs which was very fast, but we still have half of our gear an hour below so we will have to grab them tomorrow.

It took us a few hours to set up our camp, we started from zero so took us longer then usual. Plus we are at 4,500m which makes it much harder. After we settled we had amazing burgers for dinner, we also heard the forecast where it is expected to be -25c tonight.

Pics are of my tent at 4,500m, the team, and the amazing burger we had.

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cached at 4,300m

  |   7Summits   |   1 Comment

Today we woke up at 8:30am as it was very cold, we wait until the sun hits the tent to get up. After breakfast we headed up again to the cache point 200m above picked up the gear and food and took them up squirrel hill and motorcycle hill and then passed the windy corner where we cached them again at 4,300m. We carried heavy loads today it took us 4.5hrs to reach the cache point and 1.5hrs back to Camp 2. We are all exhausted, a long day but we spent. If the weather sticks we will head to Camp 3 tomorrow carrying the rest of the gear.

The weather here flips and is unpredictable, and when it’s cold it’s reaaaally cold. I didn’t feel my fingers for a while when we first started until I warmed up.

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Camp 2

  |   7Summits, Denali   |   No comment

Our day started 6:00am had bagels with grilled cheese, and oat meal long day ahead I had to load up. Right after breakfast we took down the camp and packed the gear left in our backpacks and sledges. We had about 25kgs or a bit more when we left camp 1, 2,300m above sea level at 8:30am. The sun was still behind the mountain which means it was a bit cold below zero by the first beak an hour later the sun came up so as the heat. We were in a valley of ice, surrounding us. Just like a microwave. By the time we reached the cache point 2,800m it was HOT. About 30 degrees plus now we are picking up the rest of our gear and will head up.
Our sleds and backpack are at 50kgs as we climb and pull. Imagine climbing with a heavy weight and a sledge pulling you back the whole time. Right after the cache point it was a long endless path that you can’t see the end. Another two hours we had a break under the last stretch. I’ve never sweated so much in a mountain heavy loads plus the sun.
Our last stretch is a 400m incline and only incline. I was thinking this will be very hard and I have no idea how to do it. Especially with the sun shining. As I made my way up suddenly the weather flipped it started snowing and it became a whiteout. A white out is when it snows and you all you see is white, we had visibility of only 20m. I’m not sure if this helped us or not. Because of the whiteout I had no idea where camp 2 was so I was just walking blind, following the rope. One foot in front of the other head down and my mind just blank thinking of the weight I’m carrying and what will I write on my blog today.

One thing that helped us is the snow, the 400m wall would have been impossible if the sun was up, even it was snowing I had only once base layer on and was still sweating. I lost a lot of fluids today and drank over 4liters of water.
As I reached the top of the wall, I saw a guy going down, so I asked him “how far is camp?” He said “your there, just around the corner”. Suddenly I got my energy back and got excited.The thing is at altitude 200m is another 30minutes. So it took me another 30min to reach camp 2 with an altitude of 3,500m at 6:00pm. Guess what happens when we reach camp? we have to set up camp, tents, sort out the gear and food put up the kitchen tent that’s even before we boil snow for water.

After all that we crashed, I took an hour nap before I had dinner. We had a heavy carry today, but it made us save a day. All are extremely tired today, especially Raed. He had back pain prior to the climb and it got a bit worse with the heavy load. After some rest at camp he got back to normal.
Respect to Suzanne, she carried as much as us while she is much lighter than us, she attempted Denali before and said that she never carried this much in her previous climbs. They used to cache low and go down the next day to get it.
My personal opinion I’d rather do the work and stay here rather than go back again. Once you do the work you forget how hard it was.

My tent mate Masoud, was also soaked it was really hot. Being Masoud he said that is was easy until he crashed next to me and slept for a few hours. Then he admired that it was a tough one.

One thing I’m happy about today, is the day I changed my clothes and socks. Been 5 days and reached there limit, that’s for everything other than my pants as I only have one pair for the climb. So had a body wipe and change of clothes and I forgot how hard the day was.

For dinner we had tortillas, that with داقوس couldn’t be any better. Made sure that I keep drinking as I lost a lot of fluids today and have to recover fast.

Now snuggled in my sleeping bag getting ready to sleep, after an amazing day.

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Camp 1

  |   7Summits   |   No comment

Wake up call at 7:00 but  I was awake since 6:00, slept at 10:00pm so I go plenty of sleep.
Today was much quicker than yesterday as everything was organized and we became more efficient packers. Loaded up the sledges and our backpacks and we headed to camp 1. We carried loads of about 50kgs and today was all up hill took us about 2 hrs to camp 1 a live where we set up our camp quickly. Camp 1 is at 2,300m above sea level and our camp consists of sleeping tents (2 in each tent) and a kitchen/dining tent.

The day just beginning for us, we then carried up    to cache half of our loads. The reason we did this is from now on its all up hill and it’s extremely hard to carry heavy weights so we break it up into two days. Where we cached (buried) stuff we will need higher up the mountain. We cached extra clothes we will be wearing higher up, food, and gear. It took us 3.5 hrs alm uphill reaching 2,800m where we buried our stuff and headed back down to camp 1 which took us another our. We reached camp 1 by 6:00m the weather is quite good clear skies and very hot in the morning with the sun up its in the 30’s but once the sun hides behind the mountains it drops below zero in seconds.

Long tiring day today, but the team is in high spirits. Looking forward for the days to come.

Here are a few pictures of our day.

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