7Summits

Thumbs Up!

Finally, good weather. We had the quickest breakfast ever before we geared up and headed up the fixed lines again for an Acclimatization climb.

We went up the same route we did before to the top of the fixed lines then traversed until reaching the thumb which is just before camp 4. We made it there and back in to camp 3 in record time. We did it up and down in 7hrs reaching an altitude of 5,200m. While traversing the winds were very high, and cold -20c.

Coming back to camp, we had an amazing meal and discussed the way forward. We will take a rest day tomorrow, for last minute preparations before the summit push. We must make sure we have everything we need and packed, we don’t need surprises at camp 4.

The whole team is doing great, and especially after the weather cleared up. Many teams went up for the summit, but we decided that it would be safer to go in 2 days as the forecaster is showing better weather.

Another Day In Paradise

Woken up at 5:30am with the gusting winds against my tent. I put on my earplugs and slept another few hours. Our wake up call was at 9:30am so I went to the kitchen tent. I realized that the winds were very high today so I know we weren’t going out. The guides faces were all gloomy, and not very happy with the weather.

We spent all day maintaining camp, as the high winds were blowing snow to our camp burying our tents. So we have to continually shovel the show from around our tents. The gusting winds didn’t stop all day, reaching 120km/hr. Park rangers and many guides never saw winds this strong in camp three. With our strong team we managed to secure our camp.

One of the other teams on the mountain had their kitchen tent blow away, our team helped them figure out what to do. They are in a tough situation where they are a team or 9 climbers and with no kitchen tent!

When we weren’t helping we were in our tents trying to dry it. As the weather wasn’t too cold today am the snow that was blowing in our tents melted soaking our sleeping bag and clothes. We did our best to dry them but as the sun isn’t out what ever we do won’t work.

There. Is some bad news from higher on the mountain, there are 10 climbers stuck at camp 4. We heard that they are suffering from frostbites and two of them got frostbitten on all their fingers and toes. They have been stuck there for two days, where they couldn’t rescue due to the weather. If it clears up tomorrow, teams will go up for them.

The weather reports are contradicting one report that we get from the same weather forcaster that does Everest forecast for the big teams that the weather will get better tomorrow on the other hand the Denali park forecast is telling us that the winds will continue until Monday.
We spent 8 days in camp 3, just waiting for a window to continue.

That being said, the four of us are in great shape, and in high spirits. We are all fine, and spend the time when not working playing cards and discussing the meals we will have once we are back home. Include us in your prayers,
That we get good weather and have a safe summit and back.

The Sleeping Bag Situation

Well, let me tell you this my sleeping bag is not only my sleeping bag, it’s also my wardrobe, changing room, and sometimes toilet!

As its gets colder that -25c while we sleep everything outside the sleeping bag freezes. So toothpaste, water bottle, wet wipes, socks, layers I will wear in the morning, even my shoes in my sleeping bag as if it’s cold in the morning my feet will freeze in the morning.

Batteries drain in cold weather so anything with batteries also sleep with me. That means, iPod, iphone, sat phone, iPad……..

When I wake up in the morning all the clothes I wear is in my sleeping bag so it’s also my wardrobe. I change in it as I am sharing a tent.

As for the toilet I will leave it for your imagination, let’s say it’s the most privacy you can ask for in the mountain

So imagine with all these things plus the cold weather and sleeping on a mattress on the floor. Can’t wait to sleep on a bed again!

Still in Camp 3

I lost count how many days we spent here, been over two weeks with the same clothes, no shower, limited food.
Looks like the weather will be bad for another two days before it gets better.

As of weather reports by Friday the winds will slow down. Yesterday there were people who attempted the summit. I am not sure if any reached but all of them are stuck in camp 4 with frostbite. Pushing for the summit at the wrong time is no joke and there are consequences.

We are still put in camp 3 waiting for a window, all we need is 36hrs to make it to the summit and back here.
We are trying to make the most of our time here, so we spent it playing cards, talking about food and mostly how we miss our families and children.

When the weather hits there is nothing we can really do but stay in our sleeping bags and try not to think much on matters that are not in our hands.